Walking/running isn’t my forte, however I have always dreamed, and still do, of running the Bob Graham Round. The way my body is after various injuries, it currently isn’t in a state to run it, so in July 2021 I asked my Uncle Paul if he wanted to join me in an attempt to walk the 66 miles around the Lakes over a few days.
Going over to the lakes on Thursday night after work I was ready to walk! We had planned 2/3 days to complete it. We had all the food and shelter we needed to be self sufficient and at 06:09 on 23 July 2021, I wobbled under the strain on my heavy rucksack away from the Moot Hall with a forecast of blue skies and rising temperatures.
Northern Fells
The walk up to Skiddaw flew by with fresh legs and with the morning chill still holding on (1 peak down 41 to go). After a quick break on the top for a boiled egg and some water we ambled east towards Great Calva. The temperature was rising and after the decent, the slow trod up to Great Calva started the sweat. The last time I was up here, I was fighting through bog, but today was relatively dry underfoot. (2 peaks down, 40 to go)
After descending Great Calva, we took the chance to refill our water bottles and soak our feet in Wiley Gill. The temperature was definitely still rising and we were feeling it early on. The cool water managed to bring our body temperatures down to a manageable level, ready for the hands on knee ascent of Blencathra.
The initial steep gradient gave way to a gentle rise to the top of the 868m high peak (3 down, 39 to go). We were making good time and we were both still feeling good. We took a few minutes to savour the clear views south on a hazy summers day in the Lakes, before we started to descend Halls Fell Ridge. I had never walked down this way, but had climbed up a few months prior to this attempt to check it out. It was manageable, but much harder with heavy packs on our backs, albeit still very enjoyable and my limbs and joints seemed to be holding up okay.
After 12.28 miles,1,562m of ascent and nearly 5 hours of walking, we had finished the first section. We were both roasting in the midday sun and in dire need of water and some shade. We agreed that the pub was a good shout to have a sit inside out of the sun, as well as down 3 pints of icy Coke. Alongside 3 bags of crisps.
After a well deserved rest, rehydration and time out of the sun, we stepped out of the airplane doors (pub entrance) and onto the boiling runway (path outside the pub), to start the second section of the BGR.
The Dodds, Helvellyn and a ghost?
We crossed the busy A69 and found the footpath that took us to to the start of the steep ascent up to Clough Head and the start of the Dodds range.
The midday sun was now in full swing and causing havoc on our bodies. The steep climb up is tough anytime, especially with heavy packs on and in +30 degrees heat. The little footholds up the side of the fell paved our way and before we knew it, we were at the top. The next few summits were ticked off in no time and we were progressing nicely.
Clough Head
Calfhow Pike
Great Dodd
Watsons Dodd
Stybarrow Dodd
Raise
Whiteside
Lower Man
Helvellyn
We were constantly blindsided by the spectacular views of the lakes and were humble to be up in the fells on such a perfect day. No matter how many times I have been to the lakes and on the hills, I will never tire of the sights and the inner peace it can bring.
Inner peace aside…it was getting noticeably cooler, and the all day heat beaten skin didn’t help this. We layered up.
When we started descending Helvellyn, we saw a group of 20 somethings walking up. It was a summers day, but it didn’t look like they were prepared for the cooler night and darkness fast approaching. We asked if they were okay and they said they were and continued to the top. I hoped they would get down the hill safely. I will always check to see if people need any help if I think they need it, however there is only so much you can do. I didn’t think the risk was too much, so we carried on and left them to it. There was still enough time for them to get to the top and back down in the light.
Tiredness and hunger started to get to me and Paul now, as well as dehydration and we took a few rests on the walk to High Crag and Dollywaggon Pike.
We saw Grisedale Tarn as we started to descend and agreed we would stop there for the night. The plan had been to go a bit further, but we had covered a good distance in extreme heat today so agreed it was a good choice.
We got down to the Tarn about 9pm. I really wanted to jump in but decided against it as recognised it would be difficult to heat up again with a empty stomach and being pretty dehydrated.
We pitched the tents, got water, made food, had a cuppa and off to sleep.
DAY 1 STATS
25 miles
14rs 49min total time
9,057ft climbed
13 Peaks climbed
Voices in the Night
Next thing I knew, a torch was shining on the side of my tent. Voices grew nearer. It was runners, most likely running the Bob Graham with these amazing conditions. I can’t remember the exact words of the runner but it was something like
‘ I don’t know whether to pee before or after the bag of crisps… I think I will pee before.’
This made me laugh. It sounded like they were right next to my tent, but know how close noises sound when you are in a tent at night, so guessed they were far enough away.
I got woken up a few more times over the night by runners, but we expected this to happen.
Day 2
At 4am, we both woke up and decided to leave the tents and bags where they were and climb Fairfield and Seat Sandal to watch the sunrise, without the heavy bags slowing us.
As we were just getting out the tents, bear in mind it was still dark, I turned to see 2 guys walking towards us with no torch and in jeans, trainers and casual clothes. Not a great choice for the hills.
Anyway, they asked us if we were meeting someone up here? I said no, bemused at what they were asking. They then walked over to the other side of the tarn. I’m not sure if I was dreaming or what, but Paul said he saw them too and we both spent the rest of the day, and still to this day, thinking about what those 2 people were doing. We will never know.
We climbed Fairfield , whilst making sure the 2 dodgy characters didn’t steal our bags, and were greeted with a spectacular sunrise and cloud inversion. It was worth the early morning. Then on to Seat Sandal and back down to the tents for breakfast, coffee and bag packing.
After packing up, we walked down to Dunmail Raise and started the upward knee breaker of Steel Fell.
My hips and back were starting to really hurt now. After a car crash a few years back, I always start to get a lot of pain after long walks and it was back with a vengeance.
We climbed Dead Pike, Calf Crag, Sergeant Man, High Raise and Thunacarr Knott.
The next one up was Harrison Stickle. It was around 1/2pm. My hips were too painful and I didn’t want to cause any lasting damage. We made the tough decision of descending to Langdale and stopping the walk. I was annoyed at myself as Paul would have easily been able to continue and finish the walk, but we made a pact of finishing the route another time, maybe with less weight on our backs!
We got to a pub and waited for the bus back to Keswick with a few pints and bags of crisps to celebrate the walk and a great couple of days out on the fells. I felt slightly deflated, but very pleased with what we achieved in a day and a half.
Totals
20 Peaks
37.93 Miles
13,477 Ft climbed
Lots of Factor 50 used!
Jordan Matthews 